The pie's the limit

By JUNE NAYLOR
SPECIAL TO THE STAR-TELEGRAM
STAR-TELEGRAM/JILL JOHNSON
At Rocco's, the Marguerita pizza and calabrese salad have roma tomatoes, basil, olive oil and mozzarella.
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Rocco's Wood-Fired Pizza

Who it's for: True foodies

The scene: This takeout/delivery place -- there's no dining room -- is just a storefront with a counter, with just enough room for a couple of people to sit and wait for their orders to finish baking.

Why this pie: Barclay Ryall did his time at places like Michaels, Fizzi and Randall's before getting serious about giving Cowtown a bona fide crispy pizza. Combing the world, he found just the right wood-burning oven, a 7,000-pound one, in Australia. In this, he makes the most authentic pizza anywhere, known to experts as the marguerite, a work of beautiful simplicity with fresh roma tomatoes, basil leaves, olive oil and mozzarella. Want that in a luxe version? Ask for a drizzling of truffle oil. Want that royale? Tell 'em to add black truffles. The Vaquero has poblano chiles and ranchero sauce with grilled chicken, and you can get pizzas topped with everything from grilled sirloin steak and meatballs to artichokes and roasted garlic.

Most unusual ingredients: Molé and ricotta are among the specialty sauces, and premium toppings include goat cheese, caramelized onion, baby clams and smoked shrimp.

Sidekicks: Grilled vegetable cannelloni, Greek salad and creme brulee make for a lavish take-out supper.

Libations: If you want something other than a soft drink, a separate stop (or a well-stocked fridge or wine cellar) is a necessity.

Essentials: 5716 Locke Ave., Fort Worth; 817-731-4466. Open daily. Take-out or delivery (76107 and 76116 ZIPS) only. Pizzas start at $9. www.roccosfortworth.com.